Sand Rock, Alabama is one of the best place to climb in the Southeastern US. Cherokee Rock Village which sits just above the town provides excellent climbing with a short approach and grades ranging between 5.5 and 5.13d. Cherokee Rock Village provides more than just climbing, it also provides stunning views, excellent camping, birdwatching, hiking, and allows for reservations for private events. Just an hour and a half from Birmingham, AL (88 miles) and an hour twenty drive (77 miles) from Chattanooga it is a very easy weekend or day trip crag available to a large population.
If you haven’t been to “Sand Rock” in a while, the area has been greatly revitalized since the 90s. Thanks to work from both the Southeaster Climbers Coalition and the County, the trash, drugs, broken glass, and graffiti has been removed. Please continue to be respectful and help the restoration efforts by keeping the crag clean and staying out of designated restoration zones. Also, please consider working trail days and donating to the SCC in order to help them continue improving climbing access across the southeast!
Climbing At Cherokee Rock Village (Sand Rock)
Cherokee Rock Village has some of the most easily accessible climbing in the U.S. Just follow the main trail in about 100 feet, turn left or right, and there will be a plethora of climbs in varying difficulty. If it is your first time climbing outside, I recommend starting on Boy Scout wall. Boy Scout Wall has easy top site access, making it an excellent choice for beginners as you do not have to lead climb to access the anchors. That being said, be sure to always be tethered to an anchor when working from the top of the cliff. Boy scout wall offers a good variety of climbs between 5.6 and 5.9.
If you are a beginner, but have the skills and are comfortable lead climbing, be sure not to miss the classics like: “My Dog Has Fleas (The 8)” 5.8, “Kennel Club (The 9)” 5.9, and “Eight in the Hole” 5.8. Mountain Project has good descriptions of the these routes. If you are a Trad Leader, be sure not to miss “Knob Wall” 5.6 and “Comfortably Numb” 5.9. Both of these routes are absolute classics with full value exposure for their grades.
For more advanced climbers there is a wide variety good of climbs available. I recommend warming up on warmup wall which has many short, but fun, lead climbs available. Be sure to to miss the Ultra-Classic “Misty” 5.10b/c on the Sun Wall, no matter what grade you climb this route is an absolute blast. “Dreamscape” 5.11c and “Vicious” 5.12c are also fantastic routes and in my opinion the best of their respective number grades in the crag. Finally, if you are looking for even more challenging routes, be sure not to miss the Grotto area, its kind of tucked away, but boasts the hardest and steepest climbs at Sand Rock.
Pro Tips for Sand Rock
The Time of Year Matters: It’s the South. The summer months can be swelteringly hot, making sending hard routes, extra hard. It’s still easy to have a good time, but manage your expectations depending of the conditions. Also, depending of the time of year try to find routes in the shade, or in the sun, it will make your trip all that more enjoyable.
Bring A Stick Clip: Even if you are comfortable starting routes without them, many of the routes at Sand Rock have crux sections right off the deck. Modern routes are bolted with stick clips in mind, so using one is a good idea to keep you safe.
Don’t Limit Yourself to Daylight Hours: Building off of the last tip climbing at night can have huge advantages in the South. Night time tends to lead to cooler temps and better conditions. Be sure to have a headlamp, but also be sure to look at the stars.
Conglomerate Cruxes: While the south is known for its slopey holds, of which Sand Rock does not have a shortage, many routes also have pebbly conglomerate sections. These sections lend themselves to holds that are more difficult to see and that are much more painful to hold. Be aware they are there, and be prepared.
Camp in the Campground: The camping at Cherokee Rock Village is fantastic. Because the campground sits on top of the cliff, the views are stunning. Its also a huge plus that the amenities are nice and the campgrounds are well taken care of.
Hire a Guide: If it is your first time to the area, or you have new skills you want to learn to progress as a climber, hiring a guide is an excellent choice to make the most out of your trip. Guides know the area best, and will be able to help you maximize your time at the crag by not wasting time searching for routes, figuring out the best way to protect climbs, and more. They are also sure to have hundreds of other tips for you that will help you out on future trips!
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